披薩讓中國人吃下了臭奶酪

　　中國多是天下上最難賣奶酪之處，但劉洋照樣試下了——而西方快餐多是他的救星。

　　幾十年來，中國主流飲食中並無乳成品這一項——沒有黃油、沒有牛奶、沒有奶酪，一切都沒有。聽說90%的中國人都有乳糖不耐癥。以是，五年前，當劉洋在北京郊區創辦了一家小小的、只有兩個房間的奶酪店時，“人們說，‘這類奇異的臭器械是甚麽?’”他回想道。“這器械要怎樣做，怎樣吃?”

　　一開端，劉洋店裏的布魯斯(brousse)、哥洛汀(crottin)、卡蒙貝爾(Camembert)和多姆(tomme)奶酪令中國花費者百思不解——只管對其他歐洲奢靡品的需求日趨繁華。現在，劉洋的小店一天可以賣出33磅奶酪(約合14.9千克——譯註)，他願望跟著中國人對這類器械加倍懂得，他的買賣也會更好。

　　中國人確切對奶酪有了更多懂得，不外是經由過程間接的門路——對美式快餐日趨增加的喜好。依據一項估算，每其中國都會住民最少均勻每周都要吃一次美式快餐;必勝客在中國大陸險些天天都要新開一家分店。

　　披薩中固然含有奶酪。新西蘭大型乳品制作商恒自然(Fonterra)公司的首席履行官西奧·施皮爾斯( Theo Spierings)說，披薩的流謀殺激了全部亞洲的奶酪需求量。大都會中的超市開端擺設大塊奶酪。依據市場查詢拜訪公司英敏特(Mintel)的數據，從2009年到2014年，中國的奶酪入口增長了70%。

　　中國引導人一度以為奶酪是一種戎狄的食物。現在這類臭名已不復存在，然則對付許多花費者來講，另有另外一個題目。

　　“我擔憂它會讓我長胖，”32歲，現居北京的趙琳(音)說。“它太不康健了。”

　　【參考譯文】

　　China may be the hardest place in the world to sell cheese, but Liu Yang has been trying anyway — and Western fast food may be his salvation.

　　There has not been dairy in the mainstream Chinese diet for centuries — no butter, no milk, no cheese, nothing. Ninety percent of the population is said to be lactose intolerant. So when Mr. Liu opened a tiny two-room cheese shop on the outskirts of Beijing five years ago, “People said, ‘What is this strange stinky thing?’ ” he recalled. “ ‘How am I supposed to cook it? How am I supposed to eat it?’ ”

　　Mr. Liu’s offerings of brousse, crottin, Camembert and tomme at first mystified Chinese customers, even though prosperity was driving demand for other European luxuries. He now sells about 33 pounds of cheese a day from his little shop, and he hopes to do better as more Chinese become acquainted with the stuff.

　　That is already happening, albeit through a side door: a growing appetite for American-style fast food. The average Chinese city dweller eats it at least once a week, by one estimate; Pizza Hut is opening stores on the mainland at a rate of about one a day.

　　Pizza, of course, contains cheese. Theo Spierings, chief executive of Fonterra, a major New Zealand dairy producer, said the popularity of pizza was driving up demand for cheese across Asia. Supermarkets in big cities are starting to put blocks of cheese on display. And China’s imports of cheese rose 70 percent from 2009 to 2014, according to Mintel, a market research company.

　　Chinese leaders once considered cheese to be too barbaric for the national diet. That stigma is gone, but for many shoppers, another one remains.

　　“I’m afraid it will make me fat,” said Zhao Lin, 32, who lives in Beijing. “It’s too unhealthy.”